Syrup Infused Kumquats

• On King George, just up from HaMashbir and opposite the original Knesset Building ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/09/beautiful-clothes.html ), is one of those little candy shops. Not part of a chain, not the kind you find in a mall, but one with bins of nuts, wrapped coconut rolls, unbranded confections.
• Right now he is also selling syrup-infused kumquats. I don't know whether these are local.
• They are ambrosial. Bite into one and savor the slightly tangy sweetness, enhanced by the virtue of citrus.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Cemeteries

• At the base of the Mt. of Olives lies "Absalom's Tomb." It dates from a thousand years after Absalom died. But don't let that make you doubt the authenticity of nearby tombs, some of which Jewish graves are more than 2600 years old.
• That hillside of cemeteries is on the itinerary of some tours, but rare indeed are the tourists who visit the cemetery between the Knesset building and Sacher park. To understand these burials, and the empty slabs among them, you need a good guide ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2007/01/private-guides.html ).
• An even smaller graveyard is hidden among the brambles just south of Jaffa Rd a little to the west of the old Shaarei Tsedek (now the Israel Broadcast Authority building). Here, when access to the Mt. of Olives was denied Jews, were buried, for a brief period, Jews who refused to be buried, so the guide said, in the "Zionist" cemetery at Sanhedria or the newer cemetery above what is now Gan Sacher ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/view.html ) . There are also two later graves -- one of the dedicated head of Shaarei Tsedek and the other of a Haredi rabbi whose followers buried him there long after the cemetery was declared closed.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Looking Up

• On the roof of the building at the corner of Rdak and ben Maimon -- the one with the computer store and grocery on the ground floor -- trees and shrubs grow in what must be quite a garden. Farther down Radak are smaller plantings on balconies.
• Keep looking up and you see well-crafted ironwork and interesting sonework over windows.
• Here in Rehavia, and in other parts of the city where buildings date from the 1930s and slightly earlier, looking up also takes your eyes to added storeys, some in the style of the building below and others like new buildings built above old.
• Either way, the increase in population density intensified the neighborhood's flavors.
• See also http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/05/my-jerusalem-neighborhood.html

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Hekdesh

• Scattered among the dwellings built outside the walls towards the end of Ottoman rule are buildings marked "hekdesh" to a particular Jewish community.
• This property must be used for the good of that community forever (though I expect developers have lawyers working on how to break such covenants).
• If you read Hebrew, you can decipher signs marking such buildings throughout the Nakhalaot.
• In between Agripas and Bezalel, you can walk through a long courtyard with one such building along the Agripas side. Its tiny apartments, little improved since they were built over a hundred years ago, are leased to young couples for tiny rents.

COpyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

Incentives

• When the Old City got so overcrowded it was unhealthy, Montefiorieraised the money to build on a hill to the west. The Jews he invited to move were afraid to leave the rotection of the walls.
• Some say that cholera finally brought tenants to Mishkanot Shananim (http://www.israelimages.com/files/11880.htm). Others that it was bonus money.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Borokhov

• On the corner of Yafo and Raoul Wallenberg is the beautiful house that Meshiach Borokhov built for his wife. (It now houses a branch of the Mercantile Bank.) A blue plaque points out architectural details.
• Cross Yafo at the light (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/07/not-jaywalking.html ) and enter the dark alley. Wonder what the glass cases lining it once displayed.
• Turn right and you soon come to the little half amphitheater where guides introduce groups to the neighborhood ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/08/stupid-question.html ). Continue and you will reach the large orphanage -- actually it was more of a boarding school for poor boys -- built in the second half of the 19th century by Borokhov and another Bukharian Jew with the stipulation that no contributions be taken from anyone else. Mid to late afternoon its gates are usually open, and you can go in and see the large, now quiet, courtyard.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Gates

• When they tear down beautiful Jerusalem buildings from the 19th and early 20th centuries, they often leave a facade and gateway (as a reminder of the old building having been more appealing than the new?).
• Thus the gateway to the Kiakh (Alliance) school is oddly set in the middle of the Jaffa Road sidewalk, about a block closer to the Jaffa Gate from the location of the demolished school. The Gateway to the Etz Khaim Yeshiva, flanked by the blinded facades of tiny shops, was moved a little way back from Jaffa Road and still leads to the sad expanse in front of the impressive building.
• The gate to the Talithakumi Building (http://www.jerusalemshots.com/Jerusalem_en2-435.html ) was moved a little bit up King George, and closer to the street (outside the Mashbir department store -- supermarket in basement).
• It now looks like a monument, and I suppose it is, to older architecture.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Stage Dressing

• According to a guide (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/08/time-well-spent.html ), themes for most of the cite-creation murals around the city were chosen by the people who live or work near them.
• Neighborhood merchants, she says, asked that the mural above Maayan Stub (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/transportation-mural.html ) show future transportation (light rail) replacing the past.
• The mural represents a stage backdrop being tightened into place. Perhaps the artists doubt that the dream will become reality. Or perhaps something else is meant. Or perhaps many things.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Low Ceiling

• On Yoel Moshe Salomon (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/07/yoel-moshe-salomon.html ), facing the Gur Aryeh used-book store, look up at the front of the building.
• The floor above the shops is shorter than the floors above it.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox.

Yad Ben Tzvi

• At http://www.ybz.org.il/?ArticleID=1225 Yad ben Zvi (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2007/01/private-guides.html and http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/08/stone-houses.html ), ) lists English tours in English.
• If you are on your own, or if you have free time during a package tour, try one of these. If they are anywhere near as good as the Hebrew tours, you'll get two to three fascinating hours about history, architecture, and literature.
• We wondered why so many participants took notes. Then we started retracing the routes on our own and recognized how little we remembered.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Bus 99

• Egged's line 99 (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2007/01/private-guides.html ) provides a two-hour ride around Jerusalem in a double-decker bus.
• The views are wonderful. In places they are spectacular.
• The commentary is sketchy to nonexistent. Nevertheless, the tour is worth the charge (about 10USD) and the time. It is, for instance, the only way you can now see over the wall the Anglicans recently built around their school (http://www.aisj.co.il/ ).
• Take a map, and use the opportunity to get oriented -- difficult when you are going along twisty streets (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/05/my-jerusalem-neighborhood.html ), and easier if you can see over low buildings.
• The 99 starts opposite the huge clock on the outside of the blue and white central Bus Station. You can also pick it up at other stops -- for example, at the Sherover Promenade, across the street from the road into the Biblical Zoo, and at Yad VaShem. You can buy a ticket for one circuit, or pay more to get off the bus and get back on two hours later -- if it is not already the last bus.
• http://www.egged.co.il/Eng/main.asp?lngCategoryID=2773 has a little more information.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Safety Stripe

• The Jerusalem Municipality has painted glowing pink along the shallow step around the gratitude-to-the-Danes sculpture in Beit HaKerem (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/beit-hakerem.html ).
• I'm guessing I wasn't the only one to trip there!

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Monster

• HaMifletzet in Kiryat Hayovel (http://www.israelfamily.org/photogallery/Israel6-7-8/slides/HaMifletzet-The%20Monster.html ) is a nonarchitectural monster, well enough known to be featured in the small, excellent, and rarely-seen pamphlet published by the Jerusalem Municipality Tourist Division.
• In a shady park (a project of the Jerusalem Foundation.), HaMifletset is a tall, piebald monster, whose three tongues are slides.
• The 18, 20, and 24Alef (from the Israel and Biblelands Museums) bus stop nearby. Ask a fellow-passenger where to get off for hah-meef-let-set. In your question, use as few words as possible. When you get off the 18, go right. It is about a block from the bus stop. You can ask anyone "HaMeeletst?"and get directions.
• If you walk back to the bus stop, continue a block, cross at the T-junction, and turn right, you will see to your left a good, kid-friendly, little restaurant with tables outside and inside. Childrens will notice the dancing cows on the pillar outside. The restaurabt will also package for you you a freshly-cooked take-out meal (the common Hebrew expression sounds very like take out, and the owner and staff speak enough English to explain what's available) for a very reasonable price. You can get shawarma or regular food.
• Farther along the street, next to the supermarket (Hebrew: "soopehr") is a pizzaria.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Sidewalks End

• Outside the City wall (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/08/on-walls.html ), from the Dung Gate to the Jaffa Gate is a beautiful walk. To your left, far across the valley, are the Talpiot promenades (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/10/sherover-promenade.html and http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/10/haas-and-goldman-promenades.html ). To the east is the cemetary-covered side of the Mount of Olives. To the southeast, the City of David (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/city-of-david.html and http://www.cityofdavid.org.il/index.html ) stretches down to the Siloam pool ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pool_of_Siloam ).
• You are in watershed of the Dead Sea (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/12/watershed.html ) beyond the mounded hills to the east.
• As you walk towards the Jaffa Gate, to your right is the strip of park outside the rampart. Near the Dung Gate, the ground between the sidewalk and the wall is honeycombed with caves and what seem to be the remains of ancient cellars.
• At this point there is sidewalk (British: pavement) on both sides of the road.
• The distance between the road and the wall widens. When you reach the sign pointing up the road to "Mount Zion"( http://www.crystalinks.com/zion.html and http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/05/jerusalem-cable-car.html ), follow its arrow to your right, or walk a little farther until you see aparking lot for "Mount Zion," and turn in there, for if you continue along the main road beyond this point, you will soon reach the end of the sidewalks. You could then cross the street and walk on the low wall bordering the steep valley, or you could walk in the road facing traffic, but either requires strong nerves (and foolhardiness).
• If you follow the sign to "Mount Zion," which is outside the Zion Gate, you can continue to the Jaffa Gate through a landscaped park, or walk down Benny's stairs to cross the street to the Sultan's Pool (http://www.wcities.com/en/record/,259901/409/record.html ) -- now an outdoor venue for concerts.
• "Mount Zion" (misnamed) is itself is worth a visit or more.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Almond and Tamarind

• At about the middle of Mahaneh Yehuda Street (the wide, uncovered one in the shouk), on the left as you face Yafo with your back to Agripas, is a cafe with excellent almond (shkaydeem) and tamarind (tah-mar-indy) drinks.
• Many say that their sahleb ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/12/orchid-pudding.html ) is the best.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Why Down

• From the Jaffa Gate ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/07/lights-out.html )or the Damascus Gate ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/12/valley-street.html )the way to the Temple Mount is down. Why? Shouldn't a mount be up?
• It is up from the City of David, the site of Jerusalem when the first temple was built.
• In the Second Temple period, and as late as Roman times, for which we have extensive evidence both literary and archaeological, the city extended from the lower area on the other side of the valley to the south of the Temple Mount.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Floor Tiles

• The store selling office supplies and other things on KKL opposite the Rehavia Gymnasia (hard g) has been there since the first houses were built. If you need gift wrap, printer paper, envelopes, a newspaper, notebooks, string or any one of umerous other things -- this shop has it. You can ask in English. Not the tiles paving the wmall area between the door and the sidewalk.
• In the shouk, between Etz Haim and Mahaneh Yehuda Streets, at the end of the alley where the knife sharpener sits, is an unlit staircase. A flashlight reveals that the tiles on its landings are lovely examples of the art. It leads to a roof where floral-patterned tiles form rectangles reminiscent of rugs I have seen in genteel English houses. When the British ruled Jerusalem, this was (I'm told) a popular cafe.
• See also http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/tiles.html
• Tiles have these advantages over rugs: In summer they are cool. To clean them you pour on water and squeegee it away (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/08/august-sun.html ). Sometimes "away" is onto the heads of people below.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Indian Vegetarian

• One of the tiny shouk (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/abundance.html )restaurants offers Indian vegetarian food.
• I could tell you the exact location, but where's the fun in that?
• Its sign is in English.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Handprint

• No sign points to it. To see it, you must look down when walking at the very base of the ben Yehuda Midrahov.
• On an access cover to the city's water system is a right handprint, a tiny sculpture by Micha Ullman (http://www.daad.de/alumni/en/4.2.4_12.html ). In East Jerusalem, on another access cover, is the artist's left handprint. Two hamsas ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khamsa ) connected by precious water.
• You can only see them if you look for them very carefully.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Apartment

• We found our apartment (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/05/my-jerusalem-neighborhood.html ) on flathunting.com , which is a Yahoo group for Jerusalem real estate. You can take look at what's offered or post your needs.
• Living in an apartment means not having the hotel breakfast, but you can get the equivalent on Friday at Cafe Rimon for 49 NIS (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/brunch.html ).
• It means an excuse to go often to the shouk (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/abundance.html ) for fruits, vegetables, nuts, olives, baked goods, salads, and more.
• More includes prepared foods for "take-out." Many restaurants will also pack their food to go.
• So you needn't even cook.
• You'll save money, and feel you are really living in Jerusalem, and be free to do all the interesting things you've read about in this blog.
• See http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2007/01/private-guides.html about finding licensed guides for exactly the tours (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/08/time-well-spent.html )you want.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

More for Kids

• Children like many of the same Jerusalem sites that adults do, thogh often for different reasons.
• Kids into role-playing games will like both tunnels from Rehavia to the Valley of the Cross, especially (until about age 12) if you call them mysterious. These tunnels are wide and short enough that claustrophobes do not mind them. The monastery(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monastery_of_the_Cross and http://members.bib-http://www.md.huji.ac.il/vjt/98.htmlhttp://www.md.huji.ac.il/vjt/98.html ) is not only a monastery, but it looks like one -- tall walls, banners flying. You can climb the hill and walk behind it with the kids making up their own adventure stories, or with you telling them about Queen Helena (http://ancienthistory.about.com/od/helena/Helena_Mother_of_Constantine.htm ) and about the building's history, which is full of intrigue.
• Up toward the Israel Museum you will come upon one of the fantastic animals (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/07/fantastic-animals.html ).
• Of course they will like the cable-car museum http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/05/jerusalem-cable-car.html ) and the windmills (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/windmills.html ).
• If you can play recordings of songs that relate to what you are seeing, and tell them what the words mean, even better. One of the shops selling CDs can, for example, sell you a copy of the wonderful song about Montefiore (sung by Yehoram Gaon, lyrics by Chaim Chefer, music by Dov Seltzer), and there are several songs about Jerusalem's walls (though they refer to walls built 1500 to 2500 years before the current walls) suitable for playing if you gather courage to take well-behaved children onto the walls (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/08/on-walls.html ).
• See http://www.hebrewsongs.com for links to songs about Jerusalem with words and where to buy them on the Internet. But I think it is more fun to go into the little CD shop near Agripas on Mahaneh Yehuda in the Shouk and, by sign language and key words, sample music.
• The Davidson Archaeological Garden has much to delight cildren and adults, including the movie (which alternates a Hebrew version with and English version). In the garden you can go up onto a short section of the wall. Plan on spending at least two hours. The audio tour has some excellent sections, and can really get you into being on a Herodian street or in an Ummaid palace.
• At Ir Daveed (http://www.cityofdavid.org.il/index.html is a beautiful but frustrating website), the City of David (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/city-of-david.html ), you can arrange a tour specially for children. This manages to be interesting for adults, too. In summer, you can go through the water tunnel with kids who are tall enough. All year you can go through the dry tunnel. Do not go through the tunnel if the child dislikes enclosed spaces, or if you do!

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Chocolates

• Chocolates by Max Brenner (aka The Bald Man) are still superb, even though they are now sold at the mall.
• A small chocolate shop and cafe on Arosoroff, just off Aza, sells Max Brenner and other excellent speciality brands, Israeli and Belgian.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox

Private Guides

• If you've done a guided tour of Israel and discovered that your choices for the next guided tour cover much the same ground, you can go around on your own, or hire a guide.
• Many sites offer English tours: for example, Ir Daveed (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/city-of-david.html ), the Israel Museum (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/model.html ), the Municipality (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/12/valley-street.html ). Egged's Line 99 around Jerusalem (http://www.egged.co.il/Eng/main.asp?lngCategoryID=2773 ) provides commentary in English as do the other tours run by Egged and United Tours (http://www.unitedtours.co.il/map.html ).These tours let you come to Israel on your own and pick where you want to go.
• Although you can find licensed guides on the Internet, I recommend contacting Beit Shmuel and asking to be put in contact with one of their English-speaking guides.
  972 2-620 3461 or Doron_yosha@wupj.org.il
• Yad Ben Tzvi has excellent guides, but I don't know whether the organizaiton will set up private tours. You can try them at 972 2 539 8855 or had@ybz.org.il
• Tell them what interests you: architecture, art, bakeries, crusaders, literary references, neighborhoods, nineteenth-century history, prophets, travelers to Jerusalem ...; or list things you want to see and learn about. Tell them how much you want to walk or climb and how sure-footed you are or are not.

Copyright 2007 Jane S. Fox