Monday, February 13, 2017

Hebrew Music Museum

The Hebrew Music Museum is new and wonderful.

Entry is on Yoel Moshe Salomen, the narrow pedestrian street off Kikar Tsion, which used to be restaurant row and is still worth a walk down. The museum is part of the developing Kikar HaMusika complex.

It is larger than I expected. Although some exhibits do discuss ties to Jewish music, the museum is really about musical instruments, particularly from eastern lands. Your ticket gets you earphones and a tablet. Get the tablet's camera to catch each exhibit's barcode label. You'll see info. Click on the arrow and you'll hear the instrument.

The museum includes an impressive VR of the second temple.

Copyright 2017 Jane S. Fox

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Tuesday, January 17, 2017

Sick Man of Europe

A current temporary exhibit at the Islamic Art Museum http://www.islamicart.co.il/english/ is "The Sick Man of Europe" -- as the late Ottoman Empire was called. It combines photographs of the Turkish army in the Great War, diagrams of destroyed Armenian churches, and a 10-minute film on whose sound track we hear two Armenian composers of the early 20th century discussing music plus a very little bit of music.

We arrived two minutes past noon for the guided tour that started at noon. "Where does the tour start?" we asked the mand selling tickets. "Right over there," he said, pointing across the lobby. After a 10-minute wait we asked again about the tour. "Oh, it's already downstairs." OK, we had not originally asked where it was, and it had indeed started from the lobby.

Another temporary exhimit shows the work of a contemporary watchmaker, Itay Noy. For this the guide was extremely helpful, pointing out the various ways in which each watch plays with time -- with trasparent faces back to back or with faces opposing a city scene to a country scene. Well worth a visit.

Copyright 2017 Jane S. Fox

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Monday, February 16, 2015

Israel Museum Archaeology Collection

Although the Hebrew tours usually have more depth, we took the English tour for its timing. The guide (Rachel) was excellent. Wide knowledge. The collection starts with hand axes from 1,500,000 years ago. And a pleasant but loud voice. We whizzed past the alphabet room. I've been there. If you go to the museum, don't miss it.

Copyright 2015 Jane S. Fox

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Wednesday, February 04, 2015

Babylon

Poppies are blooming. I enjoyed their bright red blooms as I walked through the Valley of the Cross on my way to the Assyriologists' conference at the Bible Lands Museum Monday and Tuesday. Blue skies, warm sun, tiny yellow flower clusters setting off the poppies in the grass -- perfect walking weather.

The conference was about a trove (technically called "an archive" for being found together, though their provenance is either murky or secret) of hand-sized, cuneiform-inscribed tablets from the Babylonian Exile, some of them dating to very near the time when Judeans were first forcibly resettled in what is now Iraq. Scholars have been studying them for only a few years. The conference was about the contents of some of them, inferences which might be drawn from them, and what we know about the culture around them. Most or all of them are business documents such as contracts and promissory notes.

The museum has a lovely, temporary exhibit featuring these tablets and putting them in their context.

Their language is Akkadian, difficult to read because each cuneiform symbol can have more than one sound and each sound can be represented by more than one symbol. We're used to that in English: though, through, enough, thought, sew, sow, threw, cuff, cough. But English has only 52 letters (upper and lower case) plus ten numerals and a few other symbols such as &, %, and $. Cuneiform has several hundred.

Professional scribes handled the writing and reading. They signed their names to the tablets and dated them. In fact the names and dates are particularly interesting, for men and women name themselves with their given names, patronymics, and sometimes family names. From this and the dates scholars have been able to put together several family trees and, from the contents, figure out what kind of farming was going on and who was earning a good living at it and how. I learned, for example, that entrepreneurs put together plowing teams of oxen to be rented out during the short planting season, and that the owner of the lead ox received least payment because it did not have to be as strong.

I was left with questions whose answers may already be known. For example, the Judeans probably already know Aramaic, and the neo-Babylonians probably had also started speaking Aramaic, Yet the contracts are drawn up in Akkadian, a language which had been in the area for millennia, by local scribes who had trouble transcribing the newcomers'foreign names. Was there a legal requirement that contracts be written in Akkadian?

Scholars are left with many other questions. this keeps them happily employed.

The exhibit is quite good. It displays many of the tablets. Explanations, translations, derived family trees, and more are in the catalogue. You can read the catalogue at the table opposite the entrance to the temporary exhibit. It might be worth buying a copy upstairs.

Copyright 2015 Jane S. Fox

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Wednesday, February 05, 2014

Bibles at the Bible Lands Museum

The Bible Lands Museum has an excellent, temporary exhibit of Bibles, including millennia-old fragments, hand-written scrolls, hand-written books, the first printed versions, and various oddities. Some are reproductions, but that made them no less interesting to me.

The temporary exhibits at the BLM always make their material interesting.

Afterwards I did a little googling of the sponsors and those who had leant material from their collections. I was reminded that, except in the case of violent opinions and actions, I can enjoy the work of someone I strongly disagree with.

Copyright 2014 Jane S. Fox

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Friday, January 10, 2014

Sufi Lectures and Music

We're looking forward to the Sufi music concert at the Islamic Art Museum (http://www.islamicart.co.il/en/). Friday's tour and lecture was part of the preparation. Photographer Harel Stanton showed us photographs of a low-key Sufi festival in Konya, Turkey, where the poet known as Rumi was invited to make his home. I liked Stanton's approach. He asks permission to photograph each subject, and offers them opportunities to take his picture. Thus he was able to capture one intimate meeting of Sufi believers -- or perhaps practitioners is a better word. The more public festival, in a basketball stadium, showcased traditional whirling dancers finding their way to God, but the people who gathered in a small room for music, dance, and sharing simple food were more appealing and almost understandable.

Stanton's pictures of Petra had no connection to Sufis or their music. They were just magnificent. We are now busy trying to find a suitable tour to Petra.

Copyright 2014 Jane S. Fox

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Thursday, January 02, 2014

Finding the Seam Museum

Never been there, but after the cashier at the Islamic Art Museum told a bewildered tourist she was not the first to wander in looking for the Seam Museum, I looked it up. To be sure, I first thought she said "Sea Museum," and wondered why there'd be one in Jerusalem.

Maps.google.com thinks the Seam museum is at the corner of Palmakh and HaNasi -- not surprising as maps.google.com also thinks Chel Handassa Street is over here where Katamon meets Talbieh.

The Seam Museum is actually on the seam, which is to say the old green line that separated East Jerusalem from West Jerusalem 1949-1967. The museum, whose official name is The Museum on the Seam, website (http://www.mots.org.il/Eng/Index.asp )has a good map hidden away at http://www.mots.org.il/Eng/Contact/Directions.asp .

If you want to go there by taxi, show the driver that map, and make sure he (it seems it is always a he) does not use his GPS.

But if you end up at the Islamic Art Museum, spend some time there.

Copyright 2013 by Jane Schulzinger Fox

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Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Jerusalem Poppies

Returning from the excellent Herod exhibit at the Israel Museum, we walked around the Monastery of the Cross's back wall.

Poppies.

Not the calaniot. No white ring around the base of the petals. Nurit, I think, though there is a third variety. Here and there flowers which might be rakefet -- but that would be primroses. Not that I'm sure what a primrose looks like, but I think they are actually cyclamen.

Anyway, gorgeous.

Copyright 2013 Jane Schulzinger Fox

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Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Calatrava Bridge from the Light Rail

Looking out the window of a light rail car gave me the second view of the Calatrava bridge that was not ridiculous. From the street level it is so out of place that it either makes you laugh or (especially if you are local) makes you angry. From the train the harp's strings unfold, rather dizzying.

Also dizzying for some people is the screen that announces the stops, because the direction reverses as the languages cycle through Hebrew, English and Arabic. I am going to try to learn to sound out written Arabic, practicing by listening to the spoken announcements.

The other satisfying view of the Calatrava bridge is reflected in Anish Kapoor's sculpture at the Israel Museum.

Copyright 2012 Jane S. Fox

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Thursday, January 26, 2012

Organization Outweighs Provenance

What the collection at Jerusalem's Bible Lands Museum lacks in provenance it makes up for with coherence. Maps, groupings, and explanatory material make cultural interaction possible to understand.

Each time I've taken the tour (three times in Hebrew and once in English) it's been led by a different docent, and each time I've learned something new. Yesterday one new bit was that leap months go back to Sumer.

Both at this museum and at the Israel Museum across the street, I'm always amazed by how far back so much goes.

Copyright 2012 Jane S. Fox

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Sunday, January 22, 2012

Photographs from Yemen

Somewhere in the depths of the L. A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art in Jerusalem( http://www.islamicart.co.il/en/ ) is a curator with a wonderful eye for photographic exhibits. The current one on Yemen is superb, managing to dazzle with images of people and architecture both. I no longer wonder why tourists go to Yemen.

Copyright 2012 Jane S. Fox

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Monday, October 17, 2011

Museum for Islamic Art

  • The Museum for Islamic Art (http://www.islamicart.co.il/english/visitor.asp ) is one of those gems that guided tours mostly miss. The Hebrew Website is worth surfing for pictures. At the museum, everything has complete English explanations.
  • Its permanent collection includes exhibits of interest to kids as well as adults.
  • The temporary exhibits have included music, magic, and now leisure activities throughout history. Each one I've been to has been beautifully unlike what I've seen elsewhere.

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Friday, February 25, 2011

Brunch at Mansfield

Brunch at the restaurant (Mansfield) at the entrance to the Israel Museum was delightful. The food is excellent -- a fresh, varied, beautifully presented, tasty buffet. If you are not staying at a hotel -- or are at a cheap hotel where breakfast isn't much more than toast, cheese, cucumbers, and fruit -- Try this Friday brunch. The view is beautiful and the music live, this week played by a harpist, guitarist, and violinist. When we saw the harp, we asked for Celtic and got it.

You don't need a museum entry ticket to eat at this one of the several museum restaurants. At other times they serve the excellent usual.

Copyright 2011 Jane S. Fox

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Thursday, February 24, 2011

Sufi Music

The Ottoman History lecture series at the Museum of Islamic Art ( http://www.islamicart.co.il/en/ )was capped by a concert of Sufi and other Turkish music. Once again Yinom Muallem (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2008/01/yinon-muallem.html ) on percussion fascinated me though Eyal Sela's commentary was very interesting. The music that he, Muallem, and Ariel Kassis made together was entrancing. Sela played two unfamiliar wind instruments. Kassis played the kanoune (a kind of dulcimer). Orit Sukari danced gracefully, including demonstrating Dervish turns.

Copyright 2011 Jane S. Fox

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Monday, February 14, 2011

Psalms Museum and Rav Kook's House

On our way from Beit Ticho we turned into the courtyard of the Psalms Museum. As we noted the paving covering a rainwater cistern, typical of its day, a woman asked if we had come forthe NaturePreservation Society tour. "We're members," we said, and we attached ourselves to her and the one person who had heard about the tour. The nature Preservations Society (http://aspni.org/ ) does good work but indifferent publicity for their Jerusalem tours in English. This tour covered the Psalm Museum and other buildings around the courtyard including Rav Kook's House, and Beit Ticho, down the lane.

The Psalm Museum (http://www.gojerusalem.com/discover/item_192/Museum-of-Psalms ) is and unusual place worth a visit. It is the work of one dedicated man. The display of his paintings extends behind the building, around the back and side of Rav Kook's house. I don't know of many tours that go here. It's in a part of the city where the walking is easy, so if you have a free hour, take it in.

Nearby Beit Ticho (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/beit-ticho.html ) where the admission is also free, often has interesting exhibits. Not yesterday, though, but I did see the video about Anna Ticho's life, interesting if you fill in between what's said.

Rav Kook's house does have an entry free. We arrived when their guide was giving a tour. They also have a video of the man's life and plan a modernized exhibit this summer.

If you walk back out Ticho Lane and cross HaRavKook Street you'll see a gorgeoud building, built to be the Italian Consulate, now a Franciscan Institution. Down the street a little is an "Art and Antiquities" store with the stranges objects in its display windows. Sherut's (shuttles) still pick up passengers on HaRav Kook, though they can no longer turn into Jaffa Road (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/jerusalem-light-rail.html ).

A lovely walk now connects HaRav Kook Street to HaHavatselet. One thing the Jerusalem Municipality does well is benches.

Copyright 2011 Jane S. Fox

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Friday, February 11, 2011

Turkish Guest Towels

Not what you'd call "turkish towels" at all, the towels in the exhibit of Ottoman embroidery at the Museumfor Islamic Art (http://www.islamicart.co.il/en/ ) are large but delicate. The Ottoman Empire lasted a little under 500 years, if you count from the fall of Constantinople in 1453, longer if you count from Osman I's reign over Anatolia. Osman's people were Turkic, from Central Asia. (The Ottoman Empire ruled the Land of Israel for hundreds of years.)

These towels, from the royal palace are the finest cotton batiste with silk, silver, and gold embroidery in broad bands. They were probably the work of royal wives and concubines who had little es lese to keep them busy. An explanatory video shows some of these women, looking remarkably western. I suspect those pictures were the work of the wived of English diplomats. In the 18th and 19th centuries "taking a likeness" was an "accomplishment" taught any gentlewomen who had the talent to learn.

In conjunction with the exhibit, which includes large and small rugs, and pottery of similar motifs, the museum is presenting a series of lectures by Rafi Yisraeli on the history of the Ottoman Empire. Last night he taked a bit about the young teenaged boys who were drafted, mostly from Christian areas, and brought to Istanbul to be converted to Islam and educated in complete isolation from their families They grew up to be immensely loyal to the empire, entering the top levels of its administraiton. So I've read and so Professor Yisraeli said. A remarkable triumph of education.

COpyright 2011

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Wednesday, February 02, 2011

Bridge and Hourglass

Santiago Calatrava's Jerusalem Chords light rail bridge (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chords_Bridge )looks odd and out of place when you approach the western entrance to the city, when you look at it from the Central bus station or indeed from anywhere else close up. You wonder whether there's a master plan to rebuild the city in glass and stainless steel (sign to avert the evil eye).

But seen reflected in Anish Kapoor's hourglass sculpture at the top of the Israel Museum's hill (http://www.sculptsite.com/sculpture-headlines-Anish-Kapoor-08-15-10.html ) the bridge sails towards the buildings, not playing their music perhaps but eager to reach them.

Upside down.

Turn around and see the bridge's distant beauty right side up. Turn back and walk around the sculpture on days clear, cloudy, and overcast.

Copyright 2011 Jane S. Fox

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Wednesday, March 04, 2009

Archives

I had the pleasure (and honor) of a "guided tour" by the director of the Central Archives for the History of the Jewish People( http://sites.huji.ac.il/archives/ ). Convinced me that I should have been taught in high school to keep good records. The only direction on the subject that I remember was on the importance of lab notebooks. In the corridor are displays of facsimiles of minutes of community meetings from Morocco to Ireland, plus other registers and ledgers, but the importance of the archives is in the catalogued collection of records that mention Jews: copies of a letter, in Yiddish, to the Czar kept in the archives of Czar Nicholai I's secret police; a report from Barcelona, in Latin, signed in Hebrew; private documents and public from wherever anyone can find anything.

The organization would particularly like letters, or copies of letters, from Europe before World War II.

Copyright 2009 Jane S. fox

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Thursday, January 29, 2009

Lecture

In the basement of the Islamic Art Museum (http://www.islamicart.co.il/default-eng.asp ) is a long rectangular room not very well suited to concerts and lectures. Last year it was the venue for a wonderful concert (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2008/01/yinon-muallem.html ). The musicians were on a little platform in the center of the long wall. My seat in the middle of the second row of plastic chairs was great. The folks at the far ends may have felt out of it, though we were all an appreciative audience.

This year I've been attending a lecture series there. Rafael Yisraeli's explanations of the bases of fundamentalist Islam are a mixture of admiration and wariness. He lectures frojm along the short wall by the horse armor. From the seats I've had, I had trouble making out what he wrote on the whiteboard and people in the irregular rows ahead of be often block my view of the lecturer, but the content puts what I already know into a broader context, diluting my ignorance.

Copyright 2009 Jane S. Fox

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Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Yinon Muallem

The room in the basement of the Islamic Art Museum was about the right size for chamber music, though not quite the right shape. We arrived early enough to sit close to the musicians. Their music encompassed us. Greece, Iran, Bulgaria, Iraq beat through us into the hall. You had to be there. I bought CDs, but to be in the presence of the musicians to see them and feel the crowd listening, t hat cannot be recorded. Check the notice board in the wall outside the Islamic Art Museum or their website ( http://www.islamicart.co.il/default.htm ) for events.

Yinon Muallem - vocals, percussion (http://www.yinon-muallem.com/live/ -- but this doesn't capture his percussion virtuosity)

Nissim Lugasi - vocals, tar

Eyal Sela - clarinet, flutes

Yankele Segal - bass guitar

Yaniv Raba - `ud

Copyright 2009 Jane S. Fox

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