Thursday, September 28, 2006

Beautiful Clothes

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Wednesday, September 27, 2006

4 on King George

  • Along King George (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/09/george-v.html ) on the left is the building of the JNF ( http://www.jnf.org/site/PageServer?pagename=history Karen Kayemet LeYisrael), which bought land for Jewish settlement and for forestation. In the same complex are the Jewish Agency and the UJA. Farther along is the building that housed the Knesset (parliament) from 1948 until 1966 (http://www.knesset.gov.il/main/eng/home.asp ). The slightly abstract horse scupture replaced the menorah that moved with the Knesset. (The public restrooms in the adjacent park are well-maintained.)
  • Before the old Knesset building, on the right side ofthe street, is the top of Gahn Ahtsma’oot (Independence Park) is a kiosk selling men's and women’s hats and sun glasses. He did a good business untill they moved the bus stop to thecorner of ben Yehuda [17Jan07: The kiosk is gone. Last I noticed, it was selling wonderful capes and pochos, as well as hats and umbrellas. Today there was no trace of it.]
  • King George crosses ben Yehuda(http://www.jafi.org.il/education/100/people/bios/beliezer.html). one block above the ben Yehuda midrahov (described in every guidebook) and curves to parallel The Midrehove (you can read about it in any guide book; in Jerusalem "The" midrahov always means ben Yehuda) down the hill to Yafo (the ancient route to the port of Jaffa).
  • If you are on a 4 aleph, some passengers will continue on to the Hebrew University campus or the Hadassah Hospital, both on Har HaTsofim (Mt Scopus - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Scopus ).
  • This time boarding passengers are religious men in black, more colorfully dressed women with their hair covered, and two Arab women in hijab. Across Yafo the Jewish neighborhoods are all most entirely ultra religious until Ramat Exhkol, where the population is mixed, and HaGiv’a HaTsarfatit (French Hill, aka Givat Shapira), where is is largely secular.
  • The bus stops outside the Bell Tower, which plays carillon music from time to time. A little way up the street, you can turn left into the ben Hillel promenade and continue to the more famous ben Yehuda promedade or turn left onto Yabetz ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/yabetz.html ). If instead of turning on ben Hillel you cross the street and go up that pedestrian promenade, you will reach Agrippas on the way to the Mahaneh Yehuda market ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/on-abundance.html ). Along this promenade are three or four stores selling colorful Indian clothes and scarves.
  • For the continuation of the 4 route, see http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/10/street-of-prophets.html and additional posts, through the early 20th century and up.

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Tuesday, September 26, 2006

4 to Terra Sancta

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Monday, September 25, 2006

Pump

  • Watch the map for street names. Soon after the 4 turns left on Emek Refaim, where the last bit of HaMagid (closed to vehivles and considered beneath the mapmakers’ notice) opposite Wedgewood, you can see (on the left) a pump above a rainwater cistern – now of historical interest only. If you miss it in this direction, you can see it on the right on your way back.
  • See also http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/08/cistern.html Walking through the various neighborhoods of Nakhalaot, I see many "well heads" (leading not to ground-water wells but to rain-water cisterns) but no pumps. Scrap metal is valuable.

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Thursday, September 21, 2006

Bus 4 names

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Wednesday, September 20, 2006

Number 4 Bus

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Monday, September 11, 2006

Ptilia

  • Women as young as 65 wax nostalgic over cooking and baking on a p'tilia. Sure they switched to gas as soon as they could afford four burners on the countertop -- some time in the 1960s, -- but the way they remember it, food tasted better then, and cakes, baked in a seer peleh (wonder pot), were more tender.
  • A wonder pot was like an angel-food cake pan with a lid and space between the tube and the top. Around the lid were ventilation holes. The cook put the wonder pot over a flame so the air in the tube got hot, rose, passed over the food, and out the holes. A set of four gas burners (run on balloons of naturnal gas) came with one burner exactly right for a seer peleh. Even people who could afford gas burners generally could not afford an oven.
  • A p'tilia is like a largish camping stove, except that it runs on kerosene instead of gas. Today on Agrippas Street and in the shouk itself (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/shesek.html ) the tastiest food awaits you in pots set on p'tiliot.
  • Coming into Mahaneh Yehuda from Agrippas, you'll see the pots of an Iraqi restaurant. Ask what's in each. On the next to last coss-street on your right you'll find the tempting kettles of a tiny Persian restaurant. Both have signs in Hebrew only, but you cannot miss them. Don't.

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Sunday, September 10, 2006

Destination

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Friday, September 08, 2006

On down

  • At the trafiic light, Binyamin Mitudela comes in from the right and continues as HaAhri (http://www.blogger.com/(http://israelvr.net/kever_ha-ari/) to the left, up to the Museum of Islamic Art (a gem). I cross Aza and continue down the hill.
  • The hatshop on the southeast corner has a huge inventory. The following is not stereotyping (bad) but cultural sensitivity: The women who look best in hats, and tout ensemble, are the French. Perhaps it's posture. Why are French mothers better than American at instilling graceful carriage?
  • On the southwest the barstools of an alcohol-selling snackbar offer sidewalk perches. Beyond is a health food store, then hardware, a laundry, and Café Atara, moved from its historic place on ben Yehuda, but still good.
  • A little way after the Coffee Shop is a small park, its bomb shelter now the headquarters of the Neighborhood Watch. The number 31 bus to the mall stops here, but I am not tired, the sun is not hot, and it is not raining. I drink from my water bottle. A taxi beeps the offer of a ride ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/taxis.html ), but I like the feel of the sun on my calves, browning my feet around the sandal straps. Past the steps to Hatibonim St (across the street is one of the few byways not on the map: steps up to Harlap), across ben Saruk http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/biography/Saruk.html i walk down, muscles tightening against gravity. Here the view opens of the hill (across the valley) where the apartments of Nayot march up to Neve Granot with the Israel Museum above them all.
  • Across the street are an art-supply shop, three hairdressers, (one where Rav Berlin splits off), another small cafe and one of the small groceries that make city living a joy. (The last two are on the very first bit of Rav Berlin).
  • To my right, hugging the hillside, two schools cooperate: the elementary- school branch of Evelina (de Rothschild), is a (national/public) religious school for girls; Paula (ben Gurion) is a (national/public) secular coed elementary school. Volunteers from both schools and the neighborhood get together each week to clean up trash.
  • Beyond two shaded benches, I turn onto a path down through the small park and into the pedestrian tunnel under Hazaz. We volunteers have cleaned this up more than once.
  • A man and a woman on bicycles ride right into the "Valley of the Cross," but I continue parallel to busy day and night Herzog (I think http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yitzhak_HaLevi_Herzog is the one the street is named after) through the olive trees to Yevin St., quiet, shady, hidden, and almost mysterious. Three men and two women jog towards me, talking, but not on cellphones.
  • On the right, the Scouts building and after that one for the religious youth group Bnai Akiva. In Israel, Bnai Akiva groups are usually segregated by gender. Scouts are coed – which practice international Boy Scout and Girl Scout organizations found questionable. I understand they eventually made their peace with the integration.
  • An expanse of lawn opens up. Here is an excercise stop for joggers: a slant board, chinning bars. At the far end, imaginative play equipment and a drinking fountain. At the unnamed sculpture I cross to the east side of Hertzog, where there is a short line of retail shops, including a bakery with a cafe. I’m about a third of the way to the mall.
  • For the rest of the walk see http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/10/destination.html and http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/09/walking.html

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Thursday, September 07, 2006

Walking

  • I have an hour. The air sparkles, cool and bright. I’ll walk from the top of the hill, down, down to the mall (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/09/driving-distracts.html ).
  • Above the top of Derekh Aza , where ben Maimon (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maimonides) St. feeds into Agron (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gershon_Agron), is the Terra Santa building. After the Mt. Scopus campus became inaccessible, the Hebrew University held classes here. Here also were the British Council Library amd offices of Magnes Press. Now all have moved out; the huge building is refurbished and dedicated once more to the purposes of the Franciscans, who own it. For the first time, after years of walking on one side of the building or another, I notice the statue on the roof.
  • Keeping it on my left, I walk down past the Prime Minister’s Office’s sentry box. If no self-important politicians or foreign visitors are scheduled to drive in or out, you can walk on Balfour (http://www.yale.edu/lawweb/avalon/mideast/balfour.htm ) St.
  • Across the street, ben Maimon veers right. With a slight zig, I continue on Derekh Aza, along an ancient route to the sea. Between the two streets is a restaurant's a table-filled triangular patio. Below that is a hole-in-the-wall pizza place where they squeeze fresh fruit for juice.
  • A little farther down I once saw two mounted police, exercising or training their horses ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/two-horses.html ). But only once.
  • Past the electrical supply shop (open at odd hours) and a dark shop selling candy, wine, soft drinks, and liquor is a florist that sells Brenner’s magnificent chocolates. You can also buy these near the top of the escalator at the mall.
  • At right angles to the sidewalk, a dressmaker’s display case shows a witty shirt. Opposite that one dressmaker's form wears a beautifully draped jersey dress and another a top and skirt. The shop (Meshi, but the sign is in Hebrew only) is set far back from the street at the end of a narrow walk. I have never gotten up the nerve to go in. Just beyond is a tailor.
  • A tiny restaurant on the corner of Radak (http://www.ou.org/about/judaism/rabbis/radak.html) St. offers sahndveetch tuneesayit (but only when the owner's grandmother pickles lemons). A Tunisian sandwich contains boiled potato, tuna, hard-boiled egg, spicy red sauce (harissa), and other ingredients (http://www.balagan.org.uk/food/tunisian_sandwich.html ). I’ve tried that at home and never come up with anything as good.
  • Trees and shrubs spill from gardens over the stone walls that mark the sidewalk’s inner edge. The facets of the limestone facing (each building has a different style) and the subtle color variations break the monotony of the three and four-story structures (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/05/my-jerusalem-neighborhood.html ).
  • To the right and to the left I notice two buildings where curves add interest. It is as if a tower climbs, embedded, up the side, but stops at the roof line.
  • Cafes and sports bars are on both sides of the street. (See the end of http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/performing-arts-in-jerusalem.html ) In the evening this stretch is almost as lively as Emek Refaim ( http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/07/emek-refaim.html ).
  • The fruit stand on the left is said to have the most expensive fruit in Jerusalem. People from the American Midwest don’t think it’s expensive.
  • A bookstore across the street puts out bins of used books in several languages.
  • I stop at the traffic light. In four minutes I’ve also passed three hairdressers, a copy and print shop, a pen shop, two banks, a convenience store that sells home-style takeout, a waffle shop, a pharmacy, another convenience store with a video automat, a real estate agent, a travel agent, and Lekhem Tooshia (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/09/shifon.html ), which, in addition to bread and cake, sells good, if idiosyncratic, bouraykas.
  • On the sidewalks are women pushing baby carriages, an old man with a walker, middle-aged women in sequined cotton-blend shirts and slacks, here a young woman with arms bare to the shoulder blades and her midsection taking in the sun, there a girl her age in long sleeves and a denim skirt almost to the ground -- only their long straight hair is the same (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/08/comfort-relativity.html ), a middle-aged woman in hijab, men in short-sleeved shirts, others in black suits and black hats, at least one third of all of them talking on cell phones -- I count six languages in three blocks.
  • The neighborhood is proud and clean. Signs on the garbage cans (http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/frogs.html ) say the days of the week when they are emptied. Any trash that falls outside them is quickly tidied. In every block there is a bench or two. (In contrast see http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/07/love-and-darkness.html
  • I am one twelfth of the way.

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Driving Distracts

  • Driving distract from seeing.
  • The next few entries describe an hour-long walk from the top of Derekh Aza down, down to the Malkha Mall. Along the way (except for the last 10 minutes) are bus stops, restaurants, bakeries, cafes, small shops selling soft drinks, and some of the best felafel in Jerusalem. Still, I wouldn't try it during the heat of the hottest days.
  • After that, descriptions of a bus ride back up, and across, and up some more. Watch people in one direction and buildings in the other. Two dollars and fifty cents (for the round trip) gets you a survey of ethnic groups and 150 years of architecture, with a millenium and more off in the middle distance.
  • For walking or bus riding, the complete Carta street map is very helpful. It gives almost every street name and keeps you oriented (if you paid attention in the third grade to the use of maps) as the bus loops and zigzags or you lose track, on a cloudy day, of which way is east.
  • http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/09/walking.html starts you on one walking tour. http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/09/number-4-bus.html starts you on one bus tour. For both, follow the internal links.

Coyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Baby Stroller

  • After passengers get off, the bus driver closes the back door, only to open it again when told a woman needs to get a baby carriage on. The young mother wrestles with the stroller. A grey-haired man reaches down for the front axle, helps lift it up, then walks back to the second section of the articulated bus.
  • The mother maneuvers the stroller into the wide area opposite the back doors, and the driver closes them. The mother sets the brake and makes her way through the standees to pay while the bus rolls into traffic. "She has more faith in a stroller brake than I do," I think, but an older woman, who has been on the bus for several stops, has her hand on the handle.
  • Baby is safe
  • See also http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/06/gazelles.html and http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/09/number-4-bus.html and http://jerusalemblog.blogspot.com/2006/07/bus-station.html

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Shifon

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Monday, September 04, 2006

Navigating Street Names

Copyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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Sunday, September 03, 2006

George V

COpyright 2006 Jane S. Fox

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